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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Roger Briggs
Page Views: 1,190
Submitted By: adam brink on Mar 1, 2009

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  • Description 

    While this is a variation because the other Pony Express was done first, this is actually the direct line. Do Pony Express through the first pitch and into the second pitch. Where the climbing gets hard and Pony Express traverses left into the crack and arete, keep going straight up. This is the pure dihedral line straight up and adds some very technical stemming/palming moves.

    Think of the first pitch of Aerial Book but harder. My guess is that Roger Briggs was doing yoga when he did the FA of this. Stretch before you try this.

    You can link Iron Horse into this for one stellar 130 foot pitch of 5.11 climbing. Go do it!

    Location 

    Climb straight up Pony Express but don't traverse left to the arete. Climb up the wicked, stemming dihedral.

    Protection 

    All the regular stuff for Pony Express but some much smaller gear for the crux.


    Comments on Pony Express, Briggs' Variation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 1, 2009
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

    This is the variation mentioned in the Pony Express Page:
    "Going directly up the corner the whole way is thin stemming (5.11d) and is not as well protected."
    I don't think that the gear is bad per se, but it is not always where you'd want it, nor bomber.

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