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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rudaw
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Dec 16, 2014

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This route starts on the same wall as Blimey. Go past Jason and the Argonauts and cross the creek to find the vertical wall with 5 sport climbs.

Pondless is a sandbag and be ready for techy 11+ climbing. Strong fingers, high steps, and techy footwork will help you reach the anchors on this.

I talked to Rudaw about the grade on this route after i climbed it, not knowing the grade and guessing it to be around 11d/12a. He said 11b. It's funny because I mentioned to my friends (both strong climbers who were having trouble with the crux) that this would be 5.11- in some places in the country but it would be more consistent with 11c/d at the New. Rudaw is all over the place with his grading (perhaps he comes from a background where grades are way stiffer, maybe techy climbing is just that technical and not "that" hard, some of his routes clearly don't go direct through the bolt line and circumnavigate cruxes), but when you come across a good Rudaw route, you appreciate the job he has done opening new routes in our region.

Get on this thing (and all Rudaw routes) and be ready for anything regardless of the grade.


Just right of Blimey


bolts and bolted anchor

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