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Broken Tooth
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Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Dynamic Dentistry T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Insoluble T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Steve Hong , Karin Budding and Tom Carruthers
Page Views: 3,544
Submitted By: Max Schon on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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You'll probably run into Alex soon.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.


Bomber fingers, like yellow aliens, and some thin hands, like green and red camalots.

Photos of Polygrip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: perfect .4 lay-backing.  Save two bd .5s and .75s ...
perfect .4 lay-backing. Save two bd .5s and .75s ...

Comments on Polygrip Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2003

Good route description Max, but where is the climb in reference to the trail. We wouldn't want someone jumping on a 5.12+ because they thought it was Polygrip...
By Max Schon
Nov 11, 2003

Can miss it. There are three splitter crack climbs right next to each other when you get to the base of the wall. From left to right it goes: Rock Lobster, Inflictor, Polygrip.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 29, 2004

Getting over the roof is on #1.5 friends, so its more of ringlocks than thin hands. If you can't get thin hands at the roof, the 11+ rating in the Marco guide is more accurate. Considerably harder than Rock Lobster.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

cool route. mellow start. pumpy mid section, and almost desperate finish.
By Bob Rotert
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!!
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Sustained is the word. Definitely baggy fingers, rings over the bulge. It protects with purple camalot- I'd like to know who's getting thin hands there. Much much harder than RL- once the layback starts there's no rest until you punch the rings above the bulge to the handjam. And you're still not done....
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2011

Hardest move here may only be slightly harder than the crux of Rock Lobster, but Polygrip is extremely sustained, which RL is definitely not.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jan 27, 2014

Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would.
By Tom Carruthers
Feb 17, 2014

Steve Carruthers did the first ascent of this route with Steve Hong , Karin Budding and myself . It was a good weekend when we discovered the Broken Tooth Wall .
By Wei-Ming Lam
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 16, 2015

Consider cleaning your gear on the way down near the little mini roof at the end of the layback corner to route the rope outside the crack. If you leave cams in there it pulls the rope into the crack, and the rope will increase wear there from the fricton of lowering/top rope belaying, thereby widening the crack over time.

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