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Politically Incorrect 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson, Chris Alstrin, 1999
Page Views: 4,821
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (152)
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BETA PHOTO: Clear shot of route with rope through draws.


IMHO this is the best 10 in all of Shelf. Possibly a little stiff for the grade. I'd almost say more 10d, but the ultimate combination of every type of move and features that I've found at Shelf.

Start two routes left (west) of The Book of Dude-Aronomy, and five routes left of Chunky Monkey. Begin with a rising, right-trending traverse on easy ground to gain a straight-up dihedral-crack system. There are several increasingly difficult sequences the higher you get, but the crux is at the very top; clearing the the lip of the slightly overhanging headwall just below the anchors.

This is an absolute "must do"!


9 bolts.

Photos of Politically Incorrect Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning anchors on Politically Incorrect.
Cleaning anchors on Politically Incorrect.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gets a little sharp up there.
BETA PHOTO: Gets a little sharp up there.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kristal enjoying this fun route.
Kristal enjoying this fun route.

Comments on Politically Incorrect Add Comment
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By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Nov 14, 2002

I agree with O.F. that the grade may be stiff, especially if you climb straight above the last bolt to the anchors. For those of use with lesser talents and a desire to keep things at 10c; step slightly right (but not too far!) after clipping the last bolt, and follow good pockets to the anchors. A stunning route no matter how it's done.
By Edward Jenner
May 27, 2003

The grade is definitely not stiff if you climb the 'natural' line which goes slightly right at the last bolt, in which case the crux is relatively short. I guess the anchors were put over to the left a bit so the rope would not hang over the sharp bulge when lowering or top-roping.
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route was excellent. Steep in sections, and interesting getting to the anchor.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005

One star - maybe more if slabs are your thing.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It ain't no slab, AC.
By BrendanP Moran
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 28, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

At the top crux, the decent holds are obscured by a manic spatter of shitty semi-pockets, which for me turned the last two bolts into a miserable grovel. Not really hard for the grade, just hard to read. The guidebook doesn't lie when it says the moves are intensely varied, and for this I do give it some credit.

My partner loved it, guess I'm the oddball here.
By Julia
May 26, 2015

A long climb, good moves, good holds.

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