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Polish Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Steed, Marek Jakubowski July 6, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: bob steed on Aug 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Polish Direct as seen from Elderberry Buttress.

Description 

Pitch 1: climb up and left on low angle rock until the prominent right facing corner is reached, just below some small roofs. Continue up this low angle corner until a steep section is reached. Climb up a steep hand crack (5.9) and then trend left before a ledge is reached. Continue left around a big block with some bushes until it is possible to make a comfortable belay before another steep section.
Pitch 2: Continue up broken rock, trending right, and then left when you see the summit block. Continue up the steep and exposed summit block on giant holds (5.6).

Location 

The Polish Direct climbs the prominent buttress that rises above and right of the top of the John Fischer Memorial Route. From the last anchors of the JFMR, walk up and right 250' to the base of the buttress. Start Just right of the toe of the buttress, about 25' right of a giant right facing corner. Descent: From the summit block, scramble 3rd and 4th class terrain back down to the final anchors of the JFMR.

Protection 

Standard rack of gear that you need for the JFMR.


Photos of Polish Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marek belays Bob on pitch 1.
Marek belays Bob on pitch 1.

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