Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 626 total · 3/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Nov 1, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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Description Suggest change

A very popular climb in the sector of the same name.

Pitch 1: 5b � starting from a small enclave, the pitch traverses up and right up a corner / ramp, then cuts back to the left and continues up to gain the anchor. Very nice climbing, that feels somewhat exposed in the first half.
Pitch 2: 5c � beautiful climbing, more or less straight up.
Pitch 3: 6c � a bulge early on in the pitch gives it the grade. The final leg of the pitch, traversing up and left on good holds, is strenuous and superb.
Pitch 4: 6a+ - very difficult, sustained pitch on thin holds. Excellent climbing, and a real test of composure.
Pitch 5: 6b
Pitch 6: 5a � a very nice, surprisingly steep pitch that traverses hard right and up to the top out. The anchor is set back substantially from the edge.

Location Suggest change

Approach from the trail that takes off near the outhouse on the road. After meandering through the boulder field, the trail zig zags up through the scree to the base of the wall. To access this and the other nearby routes, follow the trail to the right as it gains elevation alongside the wall. At the point where the wall recedes substantially, you break from the trail, which continues on to the right, and scramble up to base of the wall again. The names of the routes are painted at the start.

Descend by walk-off. After topping out, follow a trail that leads you down and right towards the gully between sectors Orph�e and Montons/Pole et Mique. The gully descent is clear, but take good care.

Protection Suggest change

The route is adequately bolted.

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