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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Pokey. The bolts are substantially right of the l...


This line offers two distinct options for difficulty. On the bolt line the route is quite challenging, but most climbers will hug the obvious crack-feature on the left side of the wall, only venturing right to clip. At the top of the slab, however, you will be forced right into a devious sequence just below the chains.


About 20 yds west of El Nino.



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By Jason Carlson
From: El Paso, TX
Aug 19, 2015

I tried this line both ways. The beta to follow the bolt line on the face after the second ledge is tricky for 11a at best. It took me several tries to figure out a good sequence, and even then, the crimps are thin and the feet are bad. If you continue up jamming the crack after the second ledge, then traverse right to the penultimate bolt when you get to the hidden crimp near the top of the crack for the last few face moves, it is easier but still feels like 11a to me. Perhaps taking the crack all the way to the ledge and traversing right to the chains is the easiest way (I didn't try it because that ledge is very dirty).
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 13, 2017

Staying in the crack after the big horizontal makes no sense. Going straight up the bolt line is devious, techy, and stout at the grade, but also very fun.

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