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Point of No Return 

Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+ PG13 [details]
FA: Brett Meyers
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Brad Fauteux on Oct 29, 2016

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Description 

A beautiful and aesthetically pleasing left leaning arete. Sit start on top of a small boulder with a huge left hand flake and a right hand on the arete. Find the good foot options, and bump up the arete to a good thumb catch. From here execute the crux move going to a left hand crimp. From here keep it together and continue up the arete with good holds and good foot options. After matching the arete falling should not be considered an option, because the is a tall rock slab that you would land on and slide down.

Once near the point of the arete rock over the slab and grab a fin of jugs at the apex of the boulder. The mental crux is about 3 feet down from the apex, with a spicy move to a good, but thin hold on the arete. I crossed right hand to it and tried matching feet on the low crimp and cut feet. If you cut feet, take it, or you could be landing on your face.

This climb is an absolute classic and should be on everyone's list if you enjoy blood pumping highballs!

Location 

This boulder problem is located near Mouthful of Chalk, and Shadow of Colossus. If looking at Shadow of Colossus, walk left into the cave and exit the other side, and go left about 25 feet. There is a few slab climbs, and to the right this arete climb. There is also another arete climb to the left of the slabs.

Protection 

2 or 3 pads and two spotters. Due to the pedestal this boulder sits on, you are already high off the ground, and a good spot is very helpful.


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