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Point de fuite (Orient Express) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FA (1st pitch) : Bertrand Côté et Martine Codère (1977)
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Florent Riehl on Sep 8, 2015  with updates from Qcridgerunner

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Bertrand Côté on the first ascent of Point de Fu...

This cliffs is insured by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really nice 2 pitch route, that can be a 3 or even 4 pitch if you want it longer !
(You can add a pitch before -in the Planetarium area to reach the ledge- or after -see the comments for more infos)

P1 (130ft - 40m): Start on the ledge, follow a little crack up to an horizontal crack. Then reach the "railway" above and follow the steps to the left until you reach the first bolted anchor.
The pitch cross 2 bolted routes, thus you can use 2 bolts if nobody is climbing there !
Otherwise, the pros are quite far from each other : beware of the whipper ! (for the lead climber and the second !)

P2 (130ft - 40m): From the belay, climb the obvious dihedral above you. A really nice pitch. Ends with a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.

Descent : 3 Rappels
R1 : Be careful with your rope length , a 70m rope isn't enough to reach the first anchor
R2 : From the first bolted anchor rappel down to an intermediate belay station on a ledge
R3 : You reach the ground a the base of the impressive roof section.

Location 

The route starts on the same ledge than Pixie :
From the Planetarium area, hike the trail going up along the cliff, and head left at the second ledge (there is a cabled wire to secure yourself)
Go to the end of the ledge, there is a bolted anchor to secure the belayer. The route starts a few meters before the anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack
Bolted anchors


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By Florent Riehl
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 8, 2015

We climbed a last pitch above the second anchor :

P3 (140ft - 40m): Head right (a bit of bush-walking !) to climb the flake. You will have to climb throught some trees.
Once above the trees, you might want to head up as I did : big mistake ! the little crack at the end stops just a few inches before the top, and reaching the top was to hard for me.
Instead, reach the big crack in the dihedral to your right.
(I went right just after the trees, as soon as I saw the little roof with the good horizontal crack below (good handholds but big whipper risk !)
The dihedral is really fun, even if quite dirty.
End in the trees above the dihedral for a good tree-anchor.

Descent :
Head a few meters left in the forest to find a space between the trees. You can rap down from there to the second anchor of the route !

(We didn't try it, but maybe you can find a last pitch higher in the forest, in the "Boîte à surprise" area, to reach the summit of the mountain !)

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