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Glacier Point Apron - Right
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L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Apron Jacked T 
Balance Bitch T 
Balance Boy T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Edge of Token T 
Endless War T 
Garden's Edge T 
Green Dragon T 
Green Dream T 
Lonely Dancer T 
Micro Maze T 
Mr. Natural T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Slamdance T 

Point Beyond Direct 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard and Ken Weeks, 1965
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009

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From flakey slab to slabby flake

  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    P1 - (5.8/5.9) - Friction up to the flake system/dihedral, past one newer bolt. Follow the flake system as it jogs right, then leans back left. Belay on easy ground near the first shrub.

    P2 - (5.6) - You have a couple of options. Move left up to some smaller/cleaner flakes stacked on the face. Either continue left to another flake system or head up through more shrubs. Belay on the ledge system that leads over from Monday Morning Slab, at two bolts.

    Location 

    Start in the first right facing dihedral to the right of Monday Morning Slab. This feature does not quite reach the ground, and the crux (possibly a 5.9 move) is frictioning up to the base. The good news is that there is a bolt here - the bad news is that the bolt comes right *after* the crux (you can see where an older bolt used to reside, lower).

    Protection 

    Gear to 3".


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