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Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1992)
Page Views: 1,930
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Nov 27, 2011

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This striking line travels through perfect yellow and brown rock and has a little bit of everything on it. Slopey slab climbing leads to an aggressive dyno around a roof. After a good shake bust out of an undercling and choose your method to reach the base of the final roof. This section is thin and technical.

Shake out at the base of the roof, delaying the inevitable fall, and prepare to get mowed down by a typical NRG finish. Expect slopey hand holds, a lack of footholds, no chalk to mark the holds and a healthy amount of grime. Take the fall, curse the stone, and then rave about the cryptic movement once you figure it out. This really is one of the coolest finishes around.

This route was initially called "Black Rider." The current name is misleading. Don't expect a lot of pockets on this thing.

Location 

This route is just around the corner from "Bullet the New Sky." Look for a thin seam that travels up bright colored stone.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchor


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