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Pocket Rocket 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: James Garrett, 1999
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on May 5, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Pocket Rocket climbs to the top of this wall.


Sustained and exposed climbing for most of the climb. The crux is just after the runout section towards the top. Try to find holds that won't flake off as you struggle to get over the bulge.


This route is furthest to the west on the north face.


9 bolts to chains. 5.5 runout between bolts #5 and #6 with plenty of pockets and cracks for small to medium placements. 2 chains at the top. Bring QDs and a helmet. 70 meter rope recommended, 60 meter rope required for rappel. You can use bolt #5 (huge glue-in) for second rappel.

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By BenT
May 6, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Good climb for anyone who likes long exposed leads. The route is closer to 120 feet. Tie a knot in the end of your rope, and look our for loose rock. Helmets are a very good idea.
By edwin
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Great exposure, pulled off a couple holds here and there, but no real problem. Juuuust made it with a 70m rope, double check that knot. Should become a great route with traffic, although this felt a little harder than 5.8, especially after climbing Rocket Science. Softer, looser stone than the reef.
By James Garrett
Sep 26, 2007

Hi Ryan,
Yes, (I noticed a questionmark after my name) this line I did drill around 1999 if it is the one with the Glue In Bolt and as you mentioned it facilitates the rap if you are up there with only one rope. We called it Ridin' The Rocket back then. Sorry to hear it still has some looseness on it. I recall it being pretty fun, though.
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
Mar 25, 2012

Route has cleaned up well and is very good stone now.
Of the two routes on the right side of the Rocket Reef this is the one on the left. It DOES NOT have glue ins. That is Riding the Rocket.

You DO NOT NEED A 70 to Rap. You DO NOT need to make two raps. Just rap from the anchor to the ground climbers right of the formation (maybe 60')and walk back to packs on good trail.

Run out up high can be avoided by clipping, with a LONG runner, a bolt to climbers right.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 10, 2012

Actually this is the one on the right (right most route of the three) and does have glue-ins. Was there last night and counted bolts. Rock you climb on is good/solid but plenty of loose nearby so helmet recommended. Pretty up there this time of year, green and lots of flowers.

Looking at comments made by James Garret it looks to me that this route is named incorrectly and should be "Riding the Rocket".
May 13, 2012

Really nice route. The one just to the left is even nicer. Liked 'em both so much I went back and led them again yesterday. Are there any routes higher up on the reef?

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