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Pocket Rocket 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 2,018
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 20, 2006

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Past the crux. Punching it to the anchors.


Very nice, and sustained route, with bolts in all the wrong places. After getting though the first bolt, either reach high from a jug way below the bolt or climb to a jug above the bolt and clip at your waist (ground fall potential). Sequency and sustained portion of moves through the third and fourth bolt and the crux is getting past the lip onto easier terrain above.


In the center of the wall, just between two large boulders.


Six bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of Pocket Rocket Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heath riding the (pocket) rocket. August 2011.
Heath riding the (pocket) rocket. August 2011.

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By Dave Wachter
May 16, 2006

Yeah, the clip just past the first crux moves was a bitch. I couldn't get it from below, so did the waist-level method from the mid-climb jug. You're looking at a pretty big whipper from there, but not a ground fall. A great route on a great wall, excellent rock, excellent moves.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010

FA Lance Hadfield
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I thought the bolt placement and spacing wasn't too troublesome. The first crux is the weird part, seemed best to climb to the jug, then clip low, rather than clip high off something small. I'd certainly climb it again, it's a pretty good climb.

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