Pocket full of Horses
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, 6 pitches |
FA: | Crayton/Henry |
Page Views: | 3,593 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Dean Hoffman on May 25, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Edited a bit but see FAists post below for more!
P 1: Long low angle hands/off hands corner with awesome patina edges. Bouldery move to get into the hand crack with small gear then hands, wide hands forever. Anchors above and right on ok ledge. This pitch is awesome!
P2: short pitch, head up to next ledge system and make bouldery move to a bolt. Climb intelligently through awesome Winslow Wallesque edges to chain anchor on comfy ledge. very light rack and handful of slings.
P3: up through obvious crack system through a couple bolts placing you in a fantastic position with great exposure on the arête, some very cool holds through here. Two bolt anchor. Rap from here or adventure onwards.
P4: head up onto ledge and make sketchy traverse right to a two bolt anchor at the base of a 90 ft hands/big/hands to chimney pitch 5.10(?).
Alt P4: Unrope and bushwhack up and left into choss chimney, grovel up this to flattish ledge and get out the machete and head right o the base of an amazing 5.9 hand crack that takes you to the top of a small tower.
If you've made it through the 4th pitch chances are you'll want to climb the last pitch of Moonshiner, 8 bolts and a 1 and #2 Camalot will get you to the summit!!! 5.10+
Descent: 70M rope required! All rappel stations have good anchors with chains or quick links.
Rappel from summit of moonshiner back towards the ledge and summit of P5. (P5 anchors visible skiers left on rappel). Locate a hidden set of rap anchors (climber’s left) of the P5 summit block and make another rappel straight down landing on the large ledge For the top of P3. Move skier‘s left, to find the P3 anchors. Watch for loose rock. From here make three more rappels reversing pocketful of horses to the ground.
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