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Pocket Derringer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pete Delannoy
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 28, 2009

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Enjoying the fun, easy, upper headwall of Pocket D...


Pocket Derringer is no classic, but its probably one of the better 5.11- routes on the Main Wall. This route bakes in the sun for much of the day, but a large pine tree near the base provides a brief period of shade for the crux bulge at around 1pm in the Fall months.

Begin up the short slab with easy moves on prickly incut edges. Follow a pair of good pockets up the bulge, where a crux right-ward traverse on shallow incut dishes leads up onto the slabby headwall. Follow good pockets up the easy white slab to a final short bulge. Good jugs lead over this to the anchor on a ledge.


The Rising From The Plains sector consists of a bulbous overhanging tower on the left, and a long short, mostly vertical wall on the right. Pocket Derringer is the furthest left route on the vertical wall section of cliff. Its also the next route right of "Last Man Standing", beginning just right of a large boulder, behind a large pine tree.


Bolts to 2 BA. The crux is low, so stick clipping is advised.

Photos of Pocket Derringer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux bulge.
The crux bulge.

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