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Pocket Dance 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karine Croft
Page Views: 1,802
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Mar 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Start as for Rim Job but take the right bolt line and follow steepening jugs and pockets all the way to the top of the wall. Surely a contender for the best of its grade in the Gorge, this route has become an instant classic. Anyone know the name?


Up on the ledge a bit right of Love Stinks


14 bolts

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 13, 2015
By Tavis Ricksecker
Mar 1, 2012

Lower off to the ledge with a 70m, need an 80m to lower all the way to the ground. Watch your rope ends!
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 1, 2012

I believe the name is Pocket Dance and I also think that Karine Croft got the FA.
By Patty Johnson
From: Reno
Apr 3, 2012

You are so right. I just got to climb this on Sunday and she was there climbing it!
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Oct 9, 2013

Awesome climb. Looks too steep for 10c from the ground but the holds are all awesome when the climbing steepens.

I believe its 12 bolts (if you clip a bolt way off to your left when Pocket Dance parts ways with Rim Job, kind of pointless), plus 2 bolt mussy anchor.

Theme song for the upper half of the climb:
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I skip the bolt off to the left unless my second plans on leading the route as well and I leave the draws hung. But clipping it isn't pointless if you fall before getting to the next bolt..

Great route, one of my Gorge favorites
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Jan 10, 2014

Very true. Clipping that bolt would not be pointless if you fell there!

If my memory serves correctly the moves are somewhere in the 5.9 range in that area..
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Maybe only 5.8. The climb is only 10c but I've seen Croft clip every bolt.

Regardless, my vote for best 5.10 in the Gorge unless you count Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic but that one always feels 11- to me.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just got on this climb for the first time today - one of the best of the grade in the gorge. Bring a longer draw if you are going to clip the bolt off to the left at the start of Rim Job to reduce rope drag. Really fun and varied with two good rests!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2014

^^^ Told ya Erik ^^^ Extending that bolt isn't a bad idea but it's skipping it isn't a problem either. Another to your list :)
By brucy
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Fun route that would have been a good deal better with a bolt placed low on this rig above the first ledge. One day, someone might very well blow it getting to the now first bolt- since most don't pack large cams to the Gorge- and many won't be calling it such a "classic" anymore either, just stupid, or at least, a stupidly engineered classic sport route that the first ascensionists decided not to pro properly.
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree, the bolting on the first 1/4 of the route detracts from it a bit, but regardless, the route is still classic. I hope nobody gets hurt on it but even if they do, many people will still think it's classic. I am sure, if it didn't share the start with 2 other routes that were put up prior, it would have been bolted differently. So, saying it's just stupid seems kinda stupid.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
May 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

^^One could easily place a piece of GEAR *shudder*, if one was not comfortable with the initia part.


Thanks for the suggestion, Susan!

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