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Unsorted Routes:

Pocket Change 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008

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Pocket Change ascends the beaultiful, white face left of the "Illusions" arete. The rock is excellent, but the route lacks a clearly defined line, which detracts from the quality of the experience. Begin with easy climbing past the first bolt to an easy mantle onto the large ledge. The crux comes above the second bolt, with desperate liebacks & arete slaps. A fall near the 3rd bolt would not be pretty, with the ledge only a few feet below the second bolt. Above the 3rd bolt, the climbing remains difficult as the route wanders far to each side of the bolt line.


This is the furthest left (S) route at the Vault. Climb the wall left of the "Illusions" arete.


5 bolts. Take care reaching the 3rd bolt.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 8, 2008

I thought I would really like this route, since it looks so good, but the natural weaknesses are so far from the bolts it felt like I was climbing off route the entire time. It seemed like the FA wanted to "off-route" the arete, but I don't see how it would go at 5.11 without it.
By Jesse Jakomait
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 8, 2015

I tried this following the bolt line, and it seemed more like 12+. I have no idea how far you have to stray from the bolts to keep it under 12.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 26, 2016

This is a pile! Looks great, but there is nothing pleasant or fun about this route. It is not anywhere near 11+ either. Bailed on last bolt in exasperation.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 26, 2016

Toproped this after Illusions. After the ledge, it was a nonstop flurry of sharp desperate moves with the worst near the anchors. I stayed on or left of the bolt line until the top.

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