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Pocket Change 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot and Les Ellison
Page Views: 1,513
Submitted By: KipHenrie on Nov 12, 2007  with updates from John Ross

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


This climb is straight forward pocket hunting till you get to the dihedral. You clip the last bolt then you discover a weird stemming awkward move with crimps and underclings to the chains. I recommend falling there, it's very exhilarating.


This is directly right of Les is More (.10a dihedral). Or the 5th climb from the right


Seven bolts to chain anchor.

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By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 12, 2007

This is probably the climb at Division that sees the most whippers. The climbing is typical pocket pulling up to the last bolt and then the horror show begins.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Nov 14, 2007

Hah, I remember this one! What a bizarre finish. I honestly didn't think I was going to get to the top. A trip to division wall isn't complete without sandbagging somebody into doing this thing. (So far I've only been on the receiving end of the sandbagging, but I'm looking forward to turning the tables)
By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

To me it felt like very enjoyable pocket-pulling at 5.10 a/b up to the last bolt followed by a difficult/awkward finish that felt very hard for 11a. Maybe it just has a very specific sequence that none of us could figure out (?).
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It does have a very specific sequence and its very fun once you figure it out! :)
By darrell hodges
Jun 17, 2009

An inobvious sequence at the top.
Falling out of the dihedral isn't it.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jun 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a really fun climb due to the pucker factor at the top. I don't know what sequence everyone is referring to but mine involves staying out of the crack until the very last move or two. I am just breaking into being able to send 5.11 and I am not going to say this is easy but given the fact that I still can't do DEEP END, I am questioning the rating a little bit. I am a little taller so that may be an advantage. I am not going to complain though it is one more .11a under the belt. In short, this is well worth doing.
By Dan Zobell
From: Springville UT
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have to say I like Perins description of the route while I was attempting the onsight,, "It has pockets,,, And then it changes.." but once you figure out the sequence, and keep it together enough for the last two bolts, it actually seems easy..
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is the perfect route for the 5.10 climber trying to break into the 5.11 level.

1st bolt - 4th bolt: .10a pocket pulling to a no-hands-rest ledge
5th bolt: clip 5th bolt/shake out on ledge/chalk up
5th bolt - 6th bolt: .10b/pockets thin out/excellent climbing
6th bolt - 7th bolt: .10+/enter dihedral and crux sequence/stem your feet
7th bolt - chains: .11a/continue up dihedral/keep stemming and trust feet/chains in excellent condition!

Everyone is giving it a 5.11a, but this route can be sent & enjoyed by all 5.10 climbers (see also Remote Control). The top has long but safe whipper potential.

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