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Pocaterra 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 330'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Giselle Fernandez (April 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny all day
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Derek Field on May 9, 2017

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Pocaterra topo.

Description 

Pocaterra is a mountaineer-style ramble up the southwest face of Apache Arrow. The thin opening pitch and wide second pitch present their own due challenges, while the upper two pitches are more of a mellow cruise to the summit.

Decent routefinding skills won't go unused here. Grades are given below for most sections in an effort to assist the leader in choosing from the myriad of crack systems. Chain anchors guide the path up and down this large broken sandstone face.

The name is an homage to memories at the Pocaterra Lodge in the Canadian Rockies with my late grandfather Art Staniland, who passed away while we were working on this route.

Pitch 1: Climb a finger crack (5.10-) and pull a hollowed roof on good edges to surmount a mini-pillar. Place a #4 camalot and face-climb along the right-slanting crack (5.9) past one bolt. Trend up and right on scruffy ledges to a two-bolt chain anchor on the main face. (5.10-, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Move left off the belay into a wide gully (5.7), aiming for the obvious steep chimney. There is a cool roof move (5.9) to exit the bombay flare. Take a couple steps right and continue up a crimpy seam (5.8) with a .5-sized pod at the bottom of it for protection. Belay from the cordalette anchor around a healthy tree. (5.9, 70 feet)

Pitch 3: The Chossaneering Pitch. Start climbing the most direct corner (5.7) but step left at the first ledge (about 25 feet above the belay, 10 feet onto the headwall) and walk over to a hidden tunnel. Squeeze through and stand atop a mini-pillar. Continue up a chossy gully (5.6) until a small roof. When you pull the roof (5.8), swing left to a good ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor. (5.8, 90 feet)

Pitch 4: Climb straight up off the belay (5.7 with hand crack on right wall) to gain a stance below a right-trending ramp. Enjoy airy climbing on the featured, low-angle arete (5.6) with occasional gear in the corner. Belay from the two-bolt chain anchor just below the summit ridge. (5.7, 80 feet)

Scramble 3rd-class to the summit of Apache Arrow.

Rappel the route with a single 60m or 70m rope.

Location 

Starts around the middle of the southwest face of Apache Arrow. See photos.

Protection 

Single rack from TCUs to #4 camalot.
optional #5 camalot


Photos of Pocaterra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Pocaterra from the base.
Looking up at Pocaterra from the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the first pitch.
Starting the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing atop the mini-pillar on P1.
Standing atop the mini-pillar on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle reaching for the top of the mini-pillar on...
Giselle reaching for the top of the mini-pillar on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle at the bolt on P1.
Giselle at the bolt on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up to the first belay ledge with Cathedral ...
Coming up to the first belay ledge with Cathedral ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the opening of the chimney on P2.
At the opening of the chimney on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Squeezing up the flare on P2.
Squeezing up the flare on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The final bulge on P2.
The final bulge on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3: The Chossanneering Pitch. (Tag line is flaked ...
P3: The Chossanneering Pitch. (Tag line is flaked ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle reaching above the final bulge on P3.
Giselle reaching above the final bulge on P3.

Comments on Pocaterra Add Comment
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By Giselle F
May 11, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First two pitches are a MUST DO and so rad. Enjoy!

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