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Wailing Banshees S 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schillaci, 9/89
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Mike Schillaci on the first ascent of PMS, Novembe...


P.M.S. is the easiest of the sport climbs at the crag, and is a popular warmup at BONP. Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux at the last bolt where it thins.

If 5.10 is too easy, try it without using the arete; this is a fun 5.11 with thin edges & pockets, and doesn't seem too contrived.

Be careful not to send the loose gravel on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.


The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). At least 2 guidebooks say "only 3 bolts", but there are really 4 (the highest bolt is newer?).

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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice, clean, and sustained climbing but still the easiest sport route at BTONP.

The face on the left (with the arete off) is a pretty fun 5.11-. Worth doing if you're looking for something here at that grade.
By Chris Archer
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Worn cold shuts at top; Watch out for loose rock on ledge when pulling rope or lowering.

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