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The Nappy Dugout
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Pont, Tannis Richardson
Page Views: 3,114
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (130)
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BETA PHOTO: Climber: Megan Cerise.


While not jaw-droppingly stunning from the ground, this is 5.10 limestone face climbing at its best, with consistently incut holds on consistently steep terrain. It's very popular as a morning route, so be ready to stand in line. Two adjacent routes (Ivory Tower and Lee Sheftel's new route [name?]) at similar grades and a nice elevated view of a pretty stretch of river make this a nice hang.

Both of these routes are up and right of the Nappy Dugout (or Shit Cave, as it was known before porta-potties were installed in the Canyon) and start from the top of the dirt cone. PMS is the middle route and starts on easy, ledgy rock to reach a high first bolt behind the tree.

Continue past the bolt into a faint corner which terminates in a steep face. Sustained climbing takes you to an aesthetic finish on hidden holds.


10 quickdraws.

Photos of PMS Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This shot shows both PMS and PMT next to each othe...
BETA PHOTO: This shot shows both PMS and PMT next to each othe...

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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2003

This is an absolutely phenomenal route for the grade. Arguably, the best 10 at Rifle and not to be missed. During the summer, the sun hits the route by 1 or 2, so get there early.
By Adri.n Robert
From: boulder, co
Jun 5, 2006

I agree with that.. we got on at 3-4 in the roasting sun; the moves felt a lot harder than they needed to be, but hey I like loose slacklines for that same reason.
By trumpeterfrodo
Apr 20, 2007

Sick line!
Everything is there, but it is really pumpy. The only crux for this climb is clipping the bolts. I failed and took a 20 foot whipper! PMS is a MUST climb!
By Evan Winn
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It climbs so smoothly and consistantly. Good technique is very rewarded as is liiking where you can't see chalk.
By Kirstyn Leuner
From: Norwich, VT
Jun 29, 2014

Yesterday, a large block just above the first bolt and to the left ripped off when my leader gently pulled on it. It was one of the topmost blocks in the chossy, slick shelf system at the bottom of the route. We cleaned off remaining loose chunks and put an "x" on one of them. Be careful in that low section before the good rock starts.

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