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Stem It T 

Plumbago 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Randy Baker
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: jeremyrobichaud on Nov 4, 2016

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Chuck Drew leading "Plumbago," 5.10a on ...

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Description 

Climb the featured buttress, right of a vertical quartz vein, trending right past three bolts to belay ledge. Get ready for an exciting first clip (or bring a stick clip.) Gear is okay but gets worse as the climb progresses. Route is steeper than it looks from the ground and despite its blocky appearance is pumpier than expected as well. There are two small roofs to climb past on the route, the first is just below the first bolt (and first option for pro) about 15 feet up. Holds tend to be not as positive as expected and a bit slopey in places. Options for gear decrease as the climb progresses making for an exciting finish. There are bolts for anchoring at the top of pillar.

Location 

The butress right of "Stem It," the climb starts under a small roof framed by an unmistakable, big quartz vein on the left arete.

Protection 

Three bolts and a standard rack. Options for gear get decrease as the climb progresses.


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