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|Location:||40.0068, -105.4064 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002|
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 26, 2016
By S. Kimball
Oct 22, 2002
|This place is magnificent,Plotinus and Wall W.W... but whats the deal? Is there any other approach besides the obvious tresspass above Boulder Falls Trail? And what's the status of the rocks themself?|
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 17, 2003
|I have a suggestion for the Plotinus wall. If someone could put together a topo showing the routes from left to right with names and grades, they would be a lot easier to locate. The descriptions currently refer to an adjacent route which often refers to another adjacent route, and so on, making it harder to figure out what's what. How about it, Bob?|
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Mar 24, 2003
In response to Peter's request for ordering the routes, I have tried to to that. Thanks to Vaino for some of the info.
Plotinus Wall routes Left to Right
Beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).
My Buddy 10b/c * (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
Bedtime Story 10b **
Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
Morpheus 11c ** - Long right-facing corner
Wake Up Call 10b **
Snooze Button 10b ***
Chore Boy 10b/c ** (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
Smell the Coffee 10a **
The Daily Grind 10d *
Caffeine Buzz 8 * (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
Napster 10c * (4 bolts along flake)
Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
Tooth Fairy 11c **
Mr. Sandman 10c ** (behind tree)
Golden Slumber 10d **
Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b **
The Art of Dreaming 12b/c ** (rising traverse right)
The Bobsled 12a **
Lucky Strikes 12b ** Big inside corner
Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?
The following routes begin from a ledge:
The Scientist 11a/b *** (impossible looking slab)
Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
Rama 11a ** (V-shaped corner)
Lucid Dreaming 13a *** (arete)
The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:
Boulder Quartz System 12a/b **
Tooth and Nail 11a/b ** (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
Counting Sheep 11b *
Sominex 11a/b * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Sleep Deprivation 10c * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
Below the ledge is one route:
I Have a Dream 11a * 4 bolts
By Matt Chan
Jun 22, 2004
|I love the VK initials hidden in the photos for this area. Thanks for the fantastic topos Vaino!|
From: the wasatch
Jun 30, 2007
|Has the project right of the Bobsled been sent? Grade?|
By Matt Lippmann
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 1, 2007
|I was just up at Plotinus today and saw multiple signs indicating the climbing areas are closed. Anyone know what the deal is?|
By chuck ziulkowski
Mar 18, 2008
I sent the project, War on Freedom, March 8th. Does anyone know if it's been sent before? Let me know. I think it's 13 b/c.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 20, 2008
|Good for him--that's a hard climb, even if you're tall. Good to hear he's in shape!|
By Phill T
Jun 29, 2008
|Tried to climb here on 6/28/08, the trail from Boulder Falls is closed citing that it is private property. Any other way in besides hiking all the way down from Upper Dream?|
Apr 11, 2010
Just hiked to Plotinus from Upper Dream b/c Boulder Falls is still closed. Kind of a 3-hour nightmare tromp through the woods and various wrong gullies, but the following should help the next poor soul.
From the UD parking lot find the emergency phone. 20 feet southwest of that is an 8x8 post about 12 feet high. Line up the emergency phone pole and the post and walk along that line across a field towards a private property sign nailed to a tree. Find a faint trail about 10 or 15 feet into the trees on the right (west) side of the private property sign. Follow that trail skirting on the edge of private property signs (and always within view of houses) down a small gully and then back up the other side. The trail will become undefined as you hike back up out of the gully. Continue walking south/southwest until you hit a 4 foot high wooden slat fence making sure too keep the private property signs to the east. Go right (west) to the end of the fence (presumably the end of the private property). Go around the end and follow a faint trail south into a steep, loose, crappy gully. Scramble down said crappy gully several hundred meters until you hit a series of ledges. If the ledges are wet, you may want to go to climber's left and try downclimbing a corner (low 5th) for about 20 feet. Scramble down more scree to the river, find some logs across, and then hike up to Plotinus. I would expect at least 30-45 minutes for the approach and longer for the return. In my opinion, the trip isn't worth the trouble, but there it is.
Incidentally, I have no idea if any or all of this route is on private property, but judging from the private property signs that are always east of the route I think it is on public property. If it is private, let me know and I will remove this post.
By Chip Loomis
Apr 30, 2011
|Are there new routes to the left of Mr. Sandman? Anyone know their ratings?|
Oct 6, 2011
|Anyone have any new info on the approach?|
By Derek Young
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2016
For access, the Access Fund post for this page says...
The Boulder Falls Trail continues to be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail is off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail are closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
So, I ask, how do you get to it if you can't go up from Boulder Falls and you can go down from Upper Dream? Please let me know.