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Second Buttress
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Ball and Chain S 
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Pleasant Surprise 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: spring, fall, summer
Page Views: 2,042
Submitted By: ConorD on Apr 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: A clear view of Pleasant Surprise from below.

Description 

The most popular climb on the Second Buttress, and a good one to start or end the day, or take some friends up. Starts up a face to a small stance, then up a straight in crack to pull two roofs. Look out for the pleasant surprises!

Location 

This is the farthest route to the left up the slab on the 2nd buttress, marked by a few bolts to start and a crack that heads through a roof.

Protection 

Single rack to 2", stoppers, a few quickdraws and runners, chain anchors.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's a 5.8 if you're here to climb 5.12s.
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is spectacular...pulling the final roof is so much fun. I think 5.8 is spot on, and the gear is plentiful and straightforward throughout.