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New Vice Area
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Jenna's Chimney T,TR 
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Pandemonium S 
Pleasant Summer Absence S 
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Pleasant Summer Absence 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006  with updates from Sean Foster

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Ryan towards the top of Pleasant Summer Absence.

Description 

I thought this route was quite pleasant, indeed!! I didn't think it was as hard as 5.10a, although maybe I cheated around a crux?? The holds were a little dirty due to lack of traffic, however IMHO this was completely made up for by the friction present. None of the holds seemed polished, making this a nice change from the typical Red Wing routes.

Location 

This route lies to the right of B.F. Bugs and around 20 yards to the left of Goofed On Skunk Weed up and over a small hill.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 anchors with chains and biners. You might want to leave the last bolt clipped as a backup if you are top roping.


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By Andrew R.
From: Linden, VA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route as well! When the other parts of New Vice area are full of 7 person groups this route and BF Bugs will probably be open. If so go climb them. They are fun.
By rooooock
From: Oakland, California
Oct 9, 2014

A fallen tree hanging over this route was recently removed. Lots of dirt went onto this route in the process. It's looking to be difficult to clean, may need excess loose dirt removed from above so mud doesn't pour on the route in the rain. It may be a little while before these are clean again.
By Graham Kolb
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 8, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route, lots of fun! 1/3 slab, 1/3 flake, 1/3 pockets over a bulge. VERY dirty though, needs more people to get on it and clean it

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