REI Community
(n) Rebolting Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
David T 
Delila T 
Diamond Lane T 
Escalator, The T 
Goliath T 
Mogen David T 
Playing on the Freeway T 
Rap Flake T 
Rebolting Development T 
Reckless Driving T 
Season's End T 

Playing on the Freeway 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Troy Mayr and Charles Cole, 1987
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 21, 2008

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Description 

A good small holds edging exercise, similar in nature to Season's End Direct and Winter Solstice.
The first pitch is popular, while the second pitch is rarely done. Most parties that continue past the first pitch opt to do Reckless Driving for a second pitch.

Pitch 1: Start with tricky moves past two bolts (11c). The difficulties getting to the first bolt are a little dependent on the exact line taken, a plumb line from the bolt is the most difficult, a couple of feet to either side is slightly easier. From the second bolt a 10c runout takes one to the third bolt of Diamond Lane. Fortunately, the stand up moves to the third bolt are easy as it is near groundfall at that point. Thin moves (11c) lead past the third bolt and end at the bolted belay.

Pitch 2: Traverse left and then up (12a) on thin climbing, joining David on the arete. This pitch is not as good as the first pitch. A better option is to do the second pitch of Reckless Driving.

Location 

First route left of Rebolting Development. It is possible to set up a belay on the David arete right after David's crux (one person can down solo David to avoid toping out), or finish on David.

Protection 

Bolts, and gear to 3" for the second pitch.


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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 17, 2015

I found the first pitch to be a great steep slab/micro edging exercise. The crux leading to the anchor is desperate.

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