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Playing Not Spraying
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 4
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Routes in The Silver Horn
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Chalice, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Playing Not Spraying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,312 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Sep 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1-4
Beginning at the base of a large clean flake, layback up the wall and follow cracks/ramps/corners rightward into a long beautiful left-facing corner. Up finger cracks through occasionally scrappy rock, then step left out of the main corner, into a smaller and cleaner corner. Atop the big corner, traverse right, below a roof, and into a beautiful splitter crack, flakes, and delicate mantle to top-out. A few shorts bits of 5.10a... mostly easier and well-protected.
From the midway ledge, begin at the toe of center of the upper face. Aim for a roof just above small pine, and below a long right-facing corner. Pull the roof (crux) and jam up the long hand crack to a belay. Move up and rightward to a nice ledge and belay stance. Pitch 7 begins with easy laybacking on junk rock before the quality improves markedly and stemming corner leads to a hard sequence exiting the corner, and a nice ledge. The final pitch follows the deep chimney (protect well once inside) up under the summit before swinging pullups and a mantle deposit you on top.
Beginning at the base of a large clean flake, layback up the wall and follow cracks/ramps/corners rightward into a long beautiful left-facing corner. Up finger cracks through occasionally scrappy rock, then step left out of the main corner, into a smaller and cleaner corner. Atop the big corner, traverse right, below a roof, and into a beautiful splitter crack, flakes, and delicate mantle to top-out. A few shorts bits of 5.10a... mostly easier and well-protected.
From the midway ledge, begin at the toe of center of the upper face. Aim for a roof just above small pine, and below a long right-facing corner. Pull the roof (crux) and jam up the long hand crack to a belay. Move up and rightward to a nice ledge and belay stance. Pitch 7 begins with easy laybacking on junk rock before the quality improves markedly and stemming corner leads to a hard sequence exiting the corner, and a nice ledge. The final pitch follows the deep chimney (protect well once inside) up under the summit before swinging pullups and a mantle deposit you on top.
Location
Beginning at the obvious flake on the left side of the lower wall, this climbs crosses over "The Chalice" at the obvious halfway ledge.
We descended via rappeling the SE side of the peak to the start of the face. We only had one 70m rope, left a fixed nut, and used some questionable webbing. Trees and horns exist, but bringing some bulk webbing is advisable.
We descended via rappeling the SE side of the peak to the start of the face. We only had one 70m rope, left a fixed nut, and used some questionable webbing. Trees and horns exist, but bringing some bulk webbing is advisable.
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