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The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
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Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
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Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
Prow TR 
S.S. Minnow T 
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Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Play With Your Balls 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Langston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,300
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Stem where you can, and it'll save the guns. This...

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was done ground up. It was the first route done on the East Quarry. It got the name because I placed a bunch of "Lowe Balls" on this. Further inspection revealed places to put small cams and a good stem just before the crux. So it's not as bold as I thought, I just had tunnel vision.

Location 

It's the El Matador looking stembox. You can't miss it.

Protection 

Lowe Balls and small cams some stoppers. Apparently you can skip the balls if you have a few small cams.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Jul 30, 2009

Established on Lowe Balls but "further inspection" revealed CAM PLACEMENTS?? Me thinks you stinted on gear and risked your neck for a smartass route name!
By mike c
From: golden
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

A sweet route. Led ground up...a block detaching experience. If I remember correctly, the first lead entailed a leader fall (crazy John L) while holding onto a detaching boulder. I think the thing hit him in the head (a little more exciting than rapbolting). It was ok, though a red Alien saved the day. The hard part of the route is the transition from fingers to a flaring hand jam. Needs a little cleaning, but all the crack routes at the East Quarry do. The first route to be put up here. As far as I know, John L led it first, and I led it for the second time...no other attempts that I know of. Like many of the routes here, it looks short and easy, but all are adventures in their own right.
By ALuckyDuck
From: Denver, CO
Jul 22, 2016

There's a wasp nest just above the pod, after the crux hand jam flare. Being a body length above my last stopper, having a family of stinging insects kamikaze dive bombing my helmet, with no pro nearby, I decided to traverse left into Slap Happy. Honestly, this felt like 11b PG-13, but whipping on a red Alien on the crux is pretty fun. Good on ya to anyone who onsights this line and respect to John L and Mike C!