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North Face
Routes Sorted
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Burley Dudes T,S 
Clear Lycra T,S 
Cup of Java S,TR 
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Hammerhead T 
Platte Magic T,S 
Traditionalists at Play TR 
Traditionalists at Work S 
Way Jingus TR 

Platte Magic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book)
Season: spring through fall (north facing)
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: slim on Jul 21, 2010  with updates from rob bauer and 1 more

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BETA PHOTO: All 6 bolts can be seen here, then don't slip for ...

Description 

Platte Magic is yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.

This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 6th bolted route from the left and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.

Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. It is kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.

I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.

Location 

Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the [6th] bolted route from the left, and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.

Protection 

6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts were well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still this was not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).

Per rob bauer: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).


Photos of Platte Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob at the 1st bolt, 25ft.
Rob at the 1st bolt, 25ft.
Rock Climbing Photo: A rope on the route as seen from the start.
BETA PHOTO: A rope on the route as seen from the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob.
Rob.

Comments on Platte Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jun 18, 2014

All the bolts have been replaced. Thank you, ASCA!
By slim
Administrator
Feb 21, 2016

This route is currently the 6th bolted route from the left. When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This is a difficult slab climb and is certainly no "sport" route. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart and the first bolt is high. A fun, tough climb.