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Platinum Curl 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 2000
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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BETA PHOTO: Platinum Curl. The crux is turning the roof past ...

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  • Description 

    This is located on the "Surprising Crag - South Face". Locate the route 'The Touch' and find the route to its immediate left. An obvious, small roof and layback flake are apparent from the ground. Climb to the ledge (unprotected) and clip the first 2 bolts before moving over the roof, layback the flake and get some high feet to crank the roof. From here, climb past 3 more bolts to the anchors (5.9). It is a nice route, although the difficulty doesn't last long (3 seconds...). The grade is also a little high perhaps more like 11b/c ??

    Protection 

    6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Platinum Curl Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Aleix working in the crux.
    Aleix working in the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon works out the crux of the climb
    Jon works out the crux of the climb
    Rock Climbing Photo: James takes a rest after the difficult layback seq...
    James takes a rest after the difficult layback seq...

    Comments on Platinum Curl Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 13, 2001

    Jeff, we jumped on this 11/12/01 and I thought it was 5.11d for the squeeze needed to get the right foot in place.
    By Nate Barker
    Sep 4, 2002

    The flake is a pretty sweet move. Probably not a 5.12a though.
    By JVonD
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 5, 2003

    I climbed it, and I can't climb 5.12. The ratings in the whole area seemed off a little. Probably 5.11-.
    By James Davidson
    Jul 17, 2003

    Fun climb! Who cares if you think it's overrated!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 8, 2005

    I climbed this a couple years ago, and I only rarely climb 11a.
    By Clint Ballard
    From: Greeley, CO
    Aug 22, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    You people make me laugh, come on 11-/11a?
    By Mike Tsuji
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 1, 2009

    Easy climbing with one tough move, 11b.
    By Pat Kelly
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 3, 2012

    Totally reach dependent, this felt like 10+ for me...I do NOT onsight 11s this easily.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2017

    One move wonder over the small overhang easier climbing before and after.

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