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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 585
Submitted By: rob bauer on Nov 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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This is not my route; I am just filling in the database.

This is fun. It shares the first part of Paper, (up to the roof), but continues right [straight up] to separate anchors. (Paper diverges left at the roof.)


This is the last route to the right, just past the large inset area with all the hard routes. It shares the first half of Paper, up a somewhat suspect-looking ramp to a roof. This is also where the trail heads east to other crags.


12 bolts to double anchors.

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By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 20, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I really wanted to like this route (two stars in the guidebook!), but even after leading it then toproping it to clean the draws, I still didn't like it. The rock is a bit crumbly (pinched a hold to clip the last bolt only to have it disintegrate in my hand), the moves are a bit weird, and the line seemed a bit contrived (I kept wanting to go left onto Paper).
By Patrick Yarbrough
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 16, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Everyone is saying this route is crumbly, but I think it must have cleaned up, because all of the holds felt very solid to me. It isn't as nice as Paper to the left, but it is still a fun climb. I'm not sure a 60m will make it (I saw another party that had to belay their second up from the alcove to the left, rather than at the bottom of the climb), but a 70m is fine. Regardless, it is a solid route and almost certainly a grade more difficult than the other 5.9s on the same formation.
By Kirsten KDog
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ugh, not good. I thought this would be better than it was what with the book ratings and all. Kitty litter slab to start, then crumbly awkward roof, then more questionable rock to the top. I think A LOT of stuff has broken off on this one. Rock quality not good. I wouldn't do this again.

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