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The Iguana
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Plastic Lizard 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Murf, R.Vogel, A. Blair
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Murf on Sep 19, 2006

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Murf in the clean corner of Plastic Lizard. Copyri...

Description 

Plastic Lizard is a lieback crack in a right facing corner. Start off a large boulder that leans against the face. Lieback the corner as it steapens to bulge. Pull the bulge to the top.

Location 

This route is located on the North face of The Iguana, just up and right of Fabio's Crack.

Protection 

Singles with hand to large hand for anchor.


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By Dan Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Dec 10, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Getting off the ground was fairly burly. We placed a a bomber #5 camalot here, but you could probably get away with a #4 a bit higher. Once I gained the ledge on top the boulder, I had my belayer pull the #5 to reduce rope drag.

Moves off the ground and topping out were both cruxes in my opinion. Bring triples of .5 and save one for the topout. Make sure to place a upward pull piece if your belayer belays right of the boulder so your pieces don't zipper.

Gear for anchor up top requires larger gear (2" - 4"). I used (2) #3's and a #2.

Gear beta: (1) 4 or 5 for the bottom section, (3) .5's, doubles of .75 - 3

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