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Planned Obsolescence 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Jan 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resoluti...

Description 

The obvious flake at the left end of the Dinkum Wall. Start as far left as you like, and follow the big downward-pointing flake as it wanders right and up, using underclings supported by good feet. The step right to exit the flake may be the most technical move. Find your line to the anchor above.

From Wikipedia: "Planned obsolescence... in industrial design is a policy of planning or designing a product with a limited useful life..." When the flake goes, so will this route. Also, give a thump on the less obvious flake just below the anchors; erosion will have its way with these features before too long (geologically speaking).

Location 

Leftmost route on the Dinkum Wall of Bucks Bar Dome.

Protection 

TR from a pair of bolts above. We used a couple of 2" or 3" cams in the flake system as directionals to mitigate the consequence of a giant pendulum from the anchors.

The flake looks like it protects well for a trad leader, but when it runs out, there's little to protect you.


Photos of Planned Obsolescence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leigh gets ready to toprope Planned Obsolesence.
Leigh gets ready to toprope Planned Obsolesence.

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By Whitney Christine
Mar 14, 2017

Only a little scary. The first move is sketchy, but after that, you just walk up the flake. There is a sweet pocket right at the top of the flake under the bushes to your left, and another pocket directly under some grasses to your right. After that, just enjoy the crimp rail until you get up to the top.

This route shares anchors with the neighboring 5.10+ Dreamer, so its fun to just hop over to that after warming up here.

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