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(p) The Fun Factory
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Planned Obsolescence 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gary Henning 2011
Page Views: 1,084
Submitted By: andiran on Feb 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Starting up "Planned Obsolescence."

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


This route climbs up the area where the brown rock begins to transition to gray rock. A little chossy.

Beginning leaders might be better off climbing the 5.10a route Made To Order to the right of this one.


Second route from the left, between Fun Factory (5.7) and Made To Order (5.10a).


6 bolts to double ring anchors. Shares anchors with Fun Factory.

Photos of Planned Obsolescence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up "Planned Obsolescence."
Starting up "Planned Obsolescence."

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By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

So-so climbing on intriguing rock with all of the bolts a bit too far right.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very challenging for a 5.9. The bolts maybe too far right, but the rock is excellent and the movement fun.
By Countzen Shin
From: Santa Monica, CA
Dec 5, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Just climbed this.

It's... going to hurt some beginner climber trying to lead a "5.9" this one day. It's super sandbagged.

The clip from 2nd or third has potential to deck due to clip being so far right and reachy. The first clip, where I think the 'crux' is, will lead to them sliding down the side of the hill.

Totally not worth it, go to the 10a to the right, it's much better built and thought out.
By alex carey
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Also thought this was tough for a 5.9, it was not the warm up I was expecting. Might be nice to do again now that I know the moves. I don't recall it feeling like I might deck but I have a pretty big reach so clipping wasn't too tough for me.
By C Miller
From: CA
Apr 9, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this again and it too has been affected by rockfall with the grade being a more solid 5.10.

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