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Planetarium / Gecko Wall
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Planetarium 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gary Slate and Marty Lewis, 1993.
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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New Direct start to Planetarium. 11c-ish. A more d...

Description 

Start on "Wind in the Willows" and immediately traverse a slopey ledge system over the creek to the high first bolt. Make long moves up to a rest before tackling the upper section. A hard sequence guards the shuts.

Location 

The second route from the left. Climbs over the creek.

Protection 

bolts + shuts.


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By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

What a sketchfest getting to the 2nd bolt! I had to traverse 12 feet right from the 1st bolt before going up. That way you end up above the 2nd bolt and well into the decking territory before you clip at your ankle level. If you know how to jam, the crux is on the bad holds in the middle. Pretty fun climbing!
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jun 16, 2014

Added a more reasonable direct start (with Marty's permission) which is really fun. Check it out! Marty did the FA not Louie.
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Got on this today. Much better new start to the route!
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 19, 2015

The original start was removed after a request from Marty Lewis to do so, since the new direct start is better, safer, and more inline with the rest of the route.
By Phil Esra
Apr 21, 2015

Aha! I didn't know that the original bolts were removed--everything makes way more sense now. My partner and I got on this over the weekend and enjoyed the hell out of it, all the way through. 11c sounds about right for the start. Stick clipped the 2nd bolt, so didn't need the 1st bolt, but appreciated the tight spacing in general. Intended to work on Planet Y but had our hands plenty full just getting to the lower anchor. Kudos.

Felt much harder than Shattered Glass, but a very different style, so maybe 12a is perfectly reasonable. I assume it's easier than Atomic Gecko.

EDIT: There's a difficult sequence getting to the midway rest jug. You're fresher here than when you pass the last bolt, but otherwise I think it's about as difficult as that final crux. My partner sent the route pretty quickly, for his first 12a redpoint, but I have been stuck on it for several days' worth of efforts. Got to see Sandra from Bishop onsight it, which was rad. Even with the damage my ego is suffering, I still think this is a phenomenal climb. All else equal, some of the hard moves are probably easier if you're taller.
By Darrell Hensel
Apr 22, 2015

Agreed that this is harder than Shattered Glass. Planetarium seemed a little stiff, and Shattered Glass may be a little soft (11d might be better.) Then again, as noted, it is kind of hard to compare the two different styles of climbing.