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Planetarium / Gecko Wall
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Planet X 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Sep 4, 2014

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Climb Planetarium (12a) via the new direct start. After the open shut anchor continue up clipping bolts and do a desperate boulder problem crux followed by a rest. Then 2 more bolts of endurance 5.12 to an anchor at ~30m. Great rock quality and just right of the Wind in the Willows extension. Just a bit harder though.


Gecko Wall



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By Patrick O'Donnell
May 31, 2016

Consensus seems to be 13a.
By Alex Shainman
Sep 14, 2016

Excellent route!

I removed four junk in-situ Petzl "team" draws off the last 4 bolts; they all are quite old, worn and way beyond prime condition. In addition to tattered webbing, the "bottom" bent-gate biner was grooved enough for someone to switch it up to the bolt-hanger clip in point. The "top" straight-gate biner is held by the rubber keeper and being used down at the rope clipping end. These biners have seen lots of action and since the straight-gate was originally used on top for clipping to hangers, it has a lot of scoring and is rough enough to raise concern for the rope running through.

Long term "fixed" draws is a touchy subject everywhere. In my opinion and from what I have learned, there is a local consensus that this area in general should not have draws in place for more than a couple days or so. The idea of leaving draws on your personal project for a couple days while you work it is generally acceptable, but multiple weeks/months is out of control.

Some super steep/traversing climbs at certain areas are perhaps best equipped with camouflaged chain or cable permadraws with steel biners, but here these are vertical well-bolted routes and the draws are easy to clean and hang.

Most importantly, these climbing areas are for ALL of us, so if you are going to leave draws for a couple days, use draws that are in good condition. Please DO NOT leave your second rate junk for the rest of us to deal with!

If anyone has an issue with this and my actions, feel free to contact me directly or on this public forum...

By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Sep 15, 2016

I have no problem with someone swapping out truly ratty gear, but as a local, I just wanted to make a few things clear. First, I don't know who you talked to, but I would love to talk to them too. Fixed gear on certain routes is accepted in PC. Fixed draws on certain walls like the Planetarium are due to the many locals who use that particular wall to stay fit, especially in warmer weather (plus that wall has the densest collection of hard routes in the Canyon). Fixed draws on the .13s in PC are pretty much the norm (in PC and the Gorge). People even leave fixed ropes up on Ecstasy for weeks. Not to mention the multitude of projects in various stages of development that involve fixed lines and gear. When visiting another area, I always find it's best to let the locals deal with such issues. Many developers have had their gear yanked. It's not cool. Thanks for taking down bunk gear though.

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