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Planet of the Grapes 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Jun 12, 2011

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Floyd Hayes leading Planet of the Grapes 5.6. Phot...

Description 

Climb the narrow slab (5.6) just right of the chimney or the chimney (5.6) to the summit of the pinnacle. Descend by lowering off your partner, who anchors the rope while you rappel off the opposite (north) side of the pinnacle.

Location 

Slab on the downhill side of the pinnacle below Kola.

Protection 

Cams 0.5-1" and 2.5". No permanent anchor at the summit. Set up an anchor by sticking a 2.5" cam (BD C3) straight down into a shallow pocket on the flat summit of the pillar and slinging a block at the back edge of the pillar.


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By Floyd Hayes
Jun 12, 2011

Not much of a climb, but it looked like it could be protected with gear and I thought it might be a fun little adventure, so I gave it a try. It took some time figuring out how to set up an anchor (sketchy!) and get off the pinnacle (we rappelled). I first climbed it with Phil Ermshar on June 11, 2011.
By Steve Papagiannis
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 29, 2017

Protects poorly. In the few places I could find to protect it, almost every placement was not kosher whatsoever. A lot of loose rock as well. Floyd is definitely right about a sketchy anchor up top by slinging a broad and questionably-shaped hump of rock. I would not climb this one again.

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