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Planet Claire Wall
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Planet Claire S,TR 

Planet Claire 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: James Berrry
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Jun 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

"Planet Claire" starts at the base of large Ponderosa Pine on "Planet Claire Wall." There is an obvious starting rock for those climbers who are vertically challenged (in height, that is) that gets you to the sharp starting crimps.

Crawl up the small crimpers and awkward balancy moves to a small roof. After the roof the climb backs of to 5.9-5.10 climbing. But until after the fifth bolt the climb is on you with the smallest crimper I've ever felt on a 5.11--and you'll use it to clip! You don't have to clip off of, but it makes the climb that much more interesting.

When I climbed this on 06/10/2003, I broke off THREE holds, and one of them is a crucial left hand after the fourth bolt. I'm not sure if this bumps the grade up a letter, but it's a smaller hold now (three or four fingers, half pad to two fingers, half pad) at the start of a small sequence to clip the fifth bolt.

Despite the sometimes unreliable nature of this rock, "Planet Claire" is worth doing any time you are in the Monster/Marker Area, in my opinion.

Protection 

There are eight bolts on "Planet Claire" and two rusty chain anchors on top. One 50m rope will suffice in rappeling off.


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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 18, 2005

This Route is pretty sharpe. I like the crimps and there are good moves on it.
By Jimmy D
From: Rapid City
Sep 10, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route definitely sharp, but also super fun with fantastic movement! I think the rock quality on this is actually pretty decent for the area.

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