||Trad, Mixed, 2 pitches, 350'
|Original: ||M5 [details]|
|FA: ||Perhaps Max Nuttelman, Ben Collett, May 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||78|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on May 5, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
This is what you do if that awfully tempting smear of ice that you were looking at from Sky Pond ends up being 1/2 inch thick and rather unprotected.
Follow the dihedral/gully system past some steep and turfy sections until you can traverse left along a nice looking flake to a snow patch at the top of the buttress feature to the left of the gully. We belayed here after 180 feet, but there was a little rope drag, M5.
Traverse left on the snow patch to a shallow gully system which can be roughly followed to a fixed nut belay just below where the angle eases, just left of some pretty fresh rockfall scars. This pitch was around 170 feet and also suffered from some rope drag, so it may make sense to break it up. This section is M4ish.
To descend, rap from the top of the route to a pair of fixed nuts on an obvious snow ledge directly below. One 60m rap from there gets you back to the snow.
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
Pitch 1. The traverse left is about 40 feet above ...