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> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Oeste (W F…
> Corrugated Roof Area
Bernal Sanders
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
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Routes in Corrugated Roof Area
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Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown PdB 3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Donette & Todd Swain 12/2015 |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Start at the left margin of the lower face at a green dihedral. Mantle up onto a ledge to reach the first bolt on the left side of the dihedral. Move slightly left from the top of the dihedral and climb a green face up to an anchor.
Location
There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet. You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.
The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the farthest left on the lower face. It starts at a green dihedral on the left margin of the cliff.
While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet. You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.
The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the farthest left on the lower face. It starts at a green dihedral on the left margin of the cliff.
While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.
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