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Buzzard Breath TR 
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Place Your Bet TR 
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Place Your Bet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,712
Submitted By: EricD on Mar 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: Place Your Bet, 5.8


The route can wander. Your reach may determine whether you choose the left or right of the arete (or a combination of both). The top is where you'll make to make the toughest decision.


This route is the arete on the right of the chimney/dihedral.


top-rope from bolts

Photos of Place Your Bet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Place your bet, 5.8.
Place your bet, 5.8.
Rock Climbing Photo: Place Your Bet follows the rope line above the cli...
BETA PHOTO: Place Your Bet follows the rope line above the cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: There is another set of bolts directly above the c...
BETA PHOTO: There is another set of bolts directly above the c...

Comments on Place Your Bet Add Comment
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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 18, 2008

Maybe I went the wrong way, but TRing this one felt harder than leading Grandpa's Belay.
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 20, 2011

Kelley's book did list this as 5.6 and that is wrong. The anchors hang the left part of the face, and that line is the common climb, up a shallow crack in a shallow roof, trending left toward a good ledge on the arete to skip the upper overhang. Pulling that using the left-hand flake is quite strenuous and beyond a 5.7 climber. Normally, climbers cross the arete to finish on the left side to the anchor ledge.

By Steve Lineberry
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 26, 2011

I thought this line was really fun and I would still grade it 5.6.

I felt like if one followed the correct line, this route didn't feel any harder than Howdy Dude ( or the last pitch of the Daddy (, which both get a 5.6 rating in the guidebooks.

I think all of those routes are more technical and require skills at reading the line, body position, correct placement of hands on holds, and correct usage of those holds. All of those skills I would expect a non-beginner 5.6 climber to have.
By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Apr 8, 2012

Great TR. Anchor placement is good for doing some hard variations. Found a few moves in the 5.10 range.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Jan 2, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Place Your Bet is a great route and probably my favorite trad route at Pilot thus far. As previously mentioned, the old Kelly book grades this at 5.6. If you stay to the true line it is more like 5.8. Sections of finger crack, face, roof, and flake climbing give this route some diverse movement and keeps things interesting. You should be comfortable at the grade if you want to rack up for this climb. Emphasis on small cams and stoppers.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 4, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I believe the 5.6 for this route is incorrect. It is rare to see overhangs (even juggy ones) in the 5.6 rating, and this route has two of them on the rope line. The top bulge requires good foot placement and decent enough strength to use the side-pulls.

Rating quibbles aside, this route is really fun. Each part of the rock offers a different kind of challenge, and is great for introducing beginners to the different types of holds/climbing they might encounter. The top area even has an easy-out to the arete on the left.

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