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Pizzi Gemelli

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Bügeleisen T 

Pizzi Gemelli  Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 10,765'
Location: 46.29521, 9.61041 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 265
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Mar 16, 2017
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The north side of Pizzi Gemelli

Description 

Pizzi Gemelli, the twins, is a double summit just east of the big, precipitous and stone spitting Pizzo Cengalo (which is east of the Piz Badile) and west across the Passo di Bondo col.

The old classic route is the big, long north ridge which was first ascended back in the mid 30’s and at the time, was the first grade VI route in the Alps. What most parties are gunning for, however, is the classic flatiron summit (2680m), the Ferra da Stiro aka the Bügeleisen.

Stunning alpine scenery with big, sheer granite faces and glaciers with fine huts and well marked trails…what’s not to like?

Getting There 

Routes on the north side of Pizzi Gemelli are best approached from the amusingly fun (read: steep) trail to the Capanna di Sciora hut. Paying extra to drive to the parking lot is especially tempting if doing a route car-to-car.

From the Sciora hut, take the well marked trail towards the Sasc Furä hut then cut over towards the base of the peak when practical.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pizzi Gemelli
Rock Climbing Photo: Big east face of the Bügeleisen.

Bügeleisen 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Pizzi Gemelli
The Bügeleisen is a classic "plaisir" multi pitch route on good granite with great position in a stunning location. As such, it’s a popular venue with especially guided groups which take advantage of the nearby hut.14 or 15 pitches, some long enough to gobble up most of a 50m rope. The route feels fairly consistent from pitch-to-pitch with the easier pitches up high. For fit climbers comfortable at the grade, plan on 3-4 hours for the ascent, and, half that for...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Pizzi Gemelli Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pizzi Gemelli to the left, the huge bulk of Pizzo ...
Pizzi Gemelli to the left, the huge bulk of Pizzo ...

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