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Piz Pordoi

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Fedele T 
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante” T 

Piz Pordoi Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 30, 2014
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Lower segment of route from Seilbahn.

Description 

Piz Pordoi is the huge blocky mountain the dominates the right skyline to the East of the Sella towers and Piz Ciavazes. The NW face is a huge wall, split up high by a massive terrace, the Southern aspect dominates the view from Passo Pordoi. It contains many routes of all difficulties, a Tramway that goes up the south side and a spectacular though difficult Via Ferrata on the South face.

Getting There 

From Cortina, drive east on Highway 48 past the Cinque Torri, over Passo di Falzarego, and then to Passo Pordoi. All the South facing routes, the Tramway (easiest descent) and the difficult via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta are accessed from this pass. For the NW face, drive over the pass a few miles down the west side of Passo Pordoi, turn right onto the Sellajoch road. Soon after the turn, the water-streaked face of Piz Pordoi is seen looming above a restaurant and refuge and Piz Ciavezes is further up across the canyon to the left of Piz Pordoi. Park at the restaurant Pian Schiavaneis or just past this at the climber parking area to the right. 200 meters up past the restaurant is a path into the Val Lasties. Hike up along this path until below your chosen route.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.3 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Piz Pordoi

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Piz Pordoi:
Fedele   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'   
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Piz Pordoi

Featured Route For Piz Pordoi
Rock Climbing Photo: On the traversing fifth pitch.

South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante” 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  Europe : Italy : ... : Piz Pordoi
The start of the route is in a gully system that is undercut by a few feet. To verify you are in the right place, look up for a small tower to the left and the main wall on the right. Pitch 1 (20m): Getting off the ground is one of the cruxes of the route due to the undercut start. Once established on the rock in the gully, head up and slightly left clipping a few pitons to a big single bolt anchor with rings in the gully. Careful with the loose rock in the gully—your belayer will appreciate...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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