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Piz Badile, North-East Wall

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Via Cassin T 

Piz Badile, North-East Wall Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 330,810,853'
Location: 46.29873, 9.58861 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,015
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jacek Czyz on Mar 19, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Piz Badile 3305m, Sciora Dafora 3169; Bergell; +tr...

Description 

The most impressive and aesthetic site of the Piz Badile. With nearly 1000 m of vertical relief, this face is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps. Home of about twenty routes. Difficulties from the easiest 6a (5.9, Cassin) to ABO (obligatory 7a, 5.11+). Generally routes on right site are shorter, easier and terminated like Cassin on North Ridge far away from the summit. They climb beautiful granite slabs. Some runouts exist. The first and most popular route on the north-east face is the Cassin Route (5a/A0 or 6a) climbed 14–16 July 1937 by Riccardo Cassin’s team.

Getting There 

Climbs are accessed from either the Sciora Hut or Sasc Furä Hut both of which are reached from Promontogno / Bondo (ca 800m). First 500m of gain/ca 4km to Laret (trail splitting) you can drive payed route for 12CHF or so. From Laret to Sciora Hut (2118 m) is about a 2 ½ -hour hike and next 1-2h for Sciora, or 1-1 ¼ h for N-E Wall of Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo (after rock fall some red flag maybe - check at locals). The Sasc Furä Hut (1,904 m, main hut for Badile) is about 1 ¾ -2h step hike above Laret and next 1-1 ½ h at end steeper scramble class3-4 to the base of North Ridge 2589m.

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 13.7 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Piz Badile, North-East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Piz Badile, North-East Wall:
Via Cassin   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 22 pitches, 2750'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Piz Badile, North-East Wall

Featured Route For Piz Badile, North-East Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Piz Badile. The Nordkante in the sun, Cassin in th...

Via Cassin 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Piz Badile, North-East Wall
A dream route for any alpine rock climber: 850 meters of clean, excellent granite taking a moderate line up a classic north face. The long history and stunning location feed into the well-deserved aura around this climb. Despite the moderate technical grade, retreat would be nearly impossible and bivvying uncomfortable, so this is a committing climb.Many additional trip reports and descriptions exist. Some of the best:summitpost.org/cassin-route/15... superb topo which saved us much...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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