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Centaur S 
Cyclops S 
Incubus S 
Jackalope S 
Mermaid S 
Pixie S 
Sasquatch S 
Unicorn S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Blake Workman
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall. Morning Shade. Afternoon Sun.
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Technical with teeny, tiny holds!


This is one technical little bitch! Start on a flat, white rock that is lodged up against two birch trees. Grab onto two monos in a very precise way and head left to a hidden two finger pocket that may or may not be there.

After getting your dainty feet set up on a thin ledge, prepare to do more choreographed moves than those skinny legged bitches on "A Chorus Line".

THIN AND TECHNICAL! Every sequence and move requires a thinking cap and a ballerina finesse. The pump really hits ya about three fourths of the way up when the holds get bigger, but are still out of reach and still hidden.

Probably impossible to onsight unless you climb like a girl or have a pair of wings sprouting from your beefy back. Red points at 5.11b after many, many, many attempts and heartbreaks.

If you are looking for an 11b that won't eat up your entire vacation something like "Oh That Smell" might be more up your alley. However, if you love routes that require physical prowess, precision and well-thought out feats of strength then this is your girl. Otherwise check out the following link Oh that smell


To the right of Jackalope. HINT! What you might think is the start, is not the start. Start as right as you can without getting into the upper starting holds of Cyclops. Don't leave the ledge at the very beginning. Dance with it as you trend left to the edge of the ledge.

And one last thing! This route gets really annoying mid-day sun right in your eyeballs when you least want it. Start early if you want to get the full flavor value of this route.


8 bolts. Closed anchors. And make sure your chalk bag is full of pixie dust!

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