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Pitone usato nelle dolomiti? 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Maybe a variation to an obscure route??
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Howard on Jul 12, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The rock face passed on its right to get to the tr...


Fun little adventurous alpine route that may have the feel of an FA when done with no beta. Mostly scrambly with a few distinct cruxes and decision making/ route finding moments. Not to be taken lightly due to the alpine blocky terrain, some unclean rock and sparse pro.
Finding the crack and piton described below, pass lichen and moss encrusted rock being careful to avoid it by using good holds, clean rock and climbing an interesting sequence. Ascend this (1st crux) and traverse right ~80' on a sandy ledge to belay at a tree. (This crux can be protected for the follower by slinging multiple large limbs of a bush.)
~50 to the right of the tree is a hornet's nest. Start next to the tree and ascend loose blocky terrain climbing the solidly attached rock of high quality.
At the summit where it steepens, head right. A good yellow alien where you begin traversing right inspires confidence. An interesting traverse move that calls for finding positive but small holds (crux 2) finishes the route psychologically before you complete the final 15' top out scramble. (Final traverse crux can be protected for follower above with a hard to spot small cam inside a well-attached block.)
The route name itself is an Italian reference to the piton whose meaning can easily be ascertained once translated.


A draw, slings, and small cams and nuts.


Begin by hiking up the area gully. The start GPS coordinates are 37.772139, -119.127734 and begins below a short section of crack beneath a piton inscribed with "made in Italy".
Top out coordinates: 37.772196, -119.127708. (Admittedly requires too much precision.)
To descend, I hiked further up to meet up with the prominent Gem lakes hiker trail, veering left on the bluff top through a social trail in brush to the right of a short steep boulder face. (See pic.) As you hit the T intersection, turn right because that way descends to return to parking < half a mile.

Photos of Pitone usato nelle dolomiti? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start with piton above.
BETA PHOTO: The start with piton above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying lake view near the top out.
BETA PHOTO: Enjoying lake view near the top out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking left at the finish.
BETA PHOTO: Looking left at the finish.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down during p2.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down during p2.

Comments on Pitone usato nelle dolomiti? Add Comment
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By kenr
Aug 17, 2017

I could not find this route this morning.
The photo of the crack looks very distinctive and convincing.
But I checked up the left side of the sector (right side of the gully, Couloir du Pissoir) and across the bottom -- did not see anything that looked like it.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 17, 2017

Not sure what to say other than that the crack picture was taken after scrambling up the gully a bit. Plus the coordinates would hopefully help though only so much precision can be expected.

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