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(8) Old School Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper T 
Bulge, The T,TR 
Flayel Bop T 
Jack the Ripper T 
Little Dipper T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Orion S 
Outshined T 
Pandora's Box S 
Pisa T,TR 
Piton Variation  S 
Queasy T 
Ripper T 
Rusty Cage T 
Standing Ovation S 
Stigmata T 

Piton Variation  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Climb Ripper up to the ledge, and up and right you will see a clean dihedral with an old piton. Work up to the piton, and clip it, and then do a heel-hook and throw to the good jug. Make sure your partner has you on a pretty tight belay to make sure you don't hit the ledge below.

Protection 

one piton. You can sneak in a blind medium offset nut if you know exactly where to place it while reaching above the crux. Or just climb up Full Jack, which easily protects.


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By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

To save a broken ankle you can pre-place a #10 BD nut or similar in the hidden pod above the crux and leave a quick draw on it. Do this by rapping down after climbing Jack The Ripper. The piton does little to keep you off the ledge given the amount of rope out and the position of the crux; otherwise go for the move and make sure you stick it.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2016

It's too bad this climb is so hard to protect - the one move is really fun and not even that hard. It's also perfectly positioned to link Ripper into Orion with minimal drag. One single bolt would enable a lot more people to get to and enjoy Orion, especially since Ripper is pretty easy and protects very well.

With gear, you might be able to get a tiny nut in just under the good handhold before you make the throw to the crux, but it'd be questionable. The nut placement Topher mentions is really solid, but if you can reach it to place the nut, you might as well have just done the crux move.

As it is now, not sure it's worth my ankles to lead this without having to pre-place gear. Bummer.

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