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Piton Route T 

Piton Route 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 18
Submitted By: Sean Maher on May 7, 2017

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Close-up from the base of the Exhibition Slab. The...

Description 

A fun outing up the Central Buttress that winds its way beneath and around the steepest bits. All of the spice happens on the first pitch where an airy traverse is made above a roof on glassy footholds. The rest is cruiser but rope drag issues make it sensible to split it into 3 pitches.

1. From the top of the Exhibition Slab, traverse easily but boldly around a blocky arete and into a corner. Climb the corner to its top below a roof, clip a piton, and launch out leftward on the worst polish you've ever seen while the rock drops away below you. Fortunately its short- after 3 meters belay from an awkward stance below the left end of the roof.

2. Climb steeply off the belay ledge and follow the slab/corner above. At the top of the slab turn the arete on the left and climb easily to belay on a comfortable ledge with a small tree.

3. Climb steep jugs until easier and looser ground is reached. Follow your nose to the top and belay from a tree.

Location 

The top of the Exhibition Slab at its left edge.

Protection 

Lots of fixed pitons are about but bring some nuts and medium cams.


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