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The Main Attraction
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Darwin's Dilemma S 
Flake Accesss T,TR 
I Just Can't Wait to be King S 
Levitation S 
Overhaul TR 
Piton Crack T,TR 
Power Play S,TR 
Tree Line T,TR 
Walking Wounded S 

Piton Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Chance Philippi on Nov 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Piton Crack follows the obvious thin splitter. Not...

Description 

Follow the crack up to the roof and keep your balance as you pass this crux. Nice trad line...

Location 

this climb is on the right hand side of main attraction boulder as you approach it on the back corner left side

Protection 

trad


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From: Pennsylvania
Sep 21, 2014

If you are willing to lead on gear this is a must for the area! Thin gear for sure. The crux and the entire climb is able to be well protected; there is an old piton or two still in place. I dont clip them as theres no need and they're rusty. Ive seen someone whip on one and it held; definitly be careful if you choose to clip the rusty relics.

No top anchors.
By Luke Lindeman
From: Lancaster, PA
Sep 12, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Led this over the past weekend. Felt that calling it "5.10" wasn't really doing it justice. For me, it felt like the harder side of 5.10 with super thin gear. Height helps. I took a fall on the awkward transition when pulling around the roof, so the feet and balance seem to be pretty tricky. Lowered to the base, reassessed the moves, sent it next go. The upper piton is bomber. The lower one is a little scary but it's easier to place some gear above it. Overall, super fun and cool to figure out. It's got some spice!

Also, I wouldn't recommend having someone follow the route. The way the anchors are set up, it makes for some nasty rope drag and frankly, it's just easier to clean it while rapping/lowering from the anchors that are off to the right.