|Type:||Trad, TR, 30'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chance Philippi on Nov 24, 2012|
|Comments on Piton Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Vertical Buddha
Sep 21, 2014
If you are willing to lead on gear this is a must for the area! Thin gear for sure. The crux and the entire climb is able to be well protected; there is an old piton or two still in place. I dont clip them as theres no need and they're rusty. Ive seen someone whip on one and it held; definitly be careful if you choose to clip the rusty relics.
No top anchors.
By Luke Lindeman
From: Lancaster, PA
Sep 12, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Led this over the past weekend. Felt that calling it "5.10" wasn't really doing it justice. For me, it felt like the harder side of 5.10 with super thin gear. Height helps. I took a fall on the awkward transition when pulling around the roof, so the feet and balance seem to be pretty tricky. Lowered to the base, reassessed the moves, sent it next go. The upper piton is bomber. The lower one is a little scary but it's easier to place some gear above it. Overall, super fun and cool to figure out. It's got some spice!
Also, I wouldn't recommend having someone follow the route. The way the anchors are set up, it makes for some nasty rope drag and frankly, it's just easier to clean it while rapping/lowering from the anchors that are off to the right.