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Piton Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,238
Submitted By: Martin Edwards on Oct 9, 2012

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Around the corner to the right of Rusty Bong is a steeply left leaning crack system up high. Near the ground is Fist/OW crack, and a bush next to it. Starting up the crack is supposed to be 5.8+, or climb awkwardly through the bush and up the slab. Continue up the crack, and follow it once it starts to move left on a delicate traverse. Either follow the upper left leaning crack, or traverse further left to the vertical crack/fins straight up. Both variations are about the same grade. Gear anchor up top, and whoever cleans it will have to walk off.


Climber's right, around the corner from Rusty Bong. Whoever cleans the anchor will have to walk off. If you build the anchor right above where you top out, the easiest way off is to the climber's right, which has an easy but exposed/lichen covered slab move, so be careful.


Pro up to 2" for the route, I remember placing a #2 and a #3 BD C4 as well as a stopper for the gear anchor up top. A red tricam in a horizontal slot protects the traverse to backup the questionable piton.

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